Saturday, July 22, 2017

Birkenau

This stop was part 2 to our Auschwitz visit. We are a little behind on blogging this day because there was so much to reflect on. How do we begin to describe our experience?

The camp is huge, and we only visited the two main areas: Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II. This post is about Auschwitz II, better known as Birkenau. We followed the tour group through the camp, but decided to break away at times, just like we did at Auschwitz I. We were actually frustrated during the museum tour because we felt like it was so rushed and we couldn't stop and process. It was important to us to get the experience we wanted out of this trip, and being a part of a tour group made it difficult to stop when we wanted. But we also understood because people were there for their own reason. 

Birkenau was a death camp, and when we walked up to the iconic entrance, it was much more typical of what you would think a concentration camp looks like. 


Train Tracks
As we stood on the train tracks that brought 1.3 million innocent people into the camp, knowing we were there to visit and could leave whenever we wanted, we were left with a sickening, guilty feeling. This was the site where over a million people were murdered. Just stop and let that sink in for a minute. 


**As we sit here writing the blog on the 8.5 hour train ride to Prague, it stopped due to construction and we were told we had to get off and take a bus, which will take us to our next train stop. We just followed blindly and put total trust in the people around us. We can't help but make a connection to the Jews who were told they were being relocated to a better place. There were no other options for them - and there are no other options for us at this point either! We followed a mother with her young daughter because she spoke broken English and was willing to help us. But that's what the Jews did - they looked to their neighbors and family to see what everyone was doing. Wouldn't you follow and trust what your friends and family were doing?**


Walking Down the Main Road
As far as we could see there were fences with barbed wire, old barracks and remnants of barracks - in every direction. The pictures we took cannot capture the enormity of this death camp. This camp was built entirely by prisoners, so the amount of labor that must have taken is extraordinary.


Cattle Car
We followed the road down past all the barracks, and came upon a cattle car still left on the tracks. This was an original car used to transport approximately 70-100 people. Staring at the car we saw there were no windows and we thought about the amount of people shoved in, standing room only, babies and children crying, if you have to use the bathroom you just had to go where you were...for us, we could almost feel the claustrophobia and it was enough to make our breath hitch. 




Gas Chambers
Continuing down the road, we reached the far side of the camp where the gas chambers were held, and the railroad tracks ended here. We saw the ruins of 2 out of 4 gas chambers located in Birkenau. 




As if the Nazi's knew they were doing terrible things, they blew up the gas chambers when it was finally discovered what was actually happening to people at these camps. Up until that point, everything they did was covered up and lies were told to make it seem like everything was fine. Prisoners were lead to these locations under the guise of taking a shower. We had tears in our eyes when our guide explained that the entrance to the gas chambers was beautifully landscaped to make it seem more inviting. The Nazi's even went so far as installing fake shower heads and giving numbers to each person. These numbers were assigned to a hook so they could hang their clothes - and get them back after the "shower". These lies Nazi's told were some of the reasons they were so successful in the mass murder. 


Ash Pond
Walking around the site, we discovered something shocking we didn't know about. There was a pond next to the chambers where they would just dump the ashes of the cremated bodies. Next to the pond, there was a plaque that read, "To the memory of the men, women, and children who fell victim to the Nazi genocide. Here lie their ashes. May their souls Rest In Peace." 



Knowing all we know about the Holocaust already, it was surprising to us that the things the Nazi's did could still shock us. We felt so heartbroken at the total lack of respect for the dead. 

Barracks
Think about what you know and have read about the sleeping quarters of the prisoners. This is nothing compared to seeing them in person, touching them, all in their original state.  The hair on our necks and arms stood on end as we fought back the tears. Dirt floors, wooden planks stacked 3 high, and at least 7 people crowding into one bunk. We got chills again just writing this! It was very hot and stuffy for us, and we were three healthy woman. We stayed inside the barracks and waited for people to leave so we could have our moment. After the crowded museum tour, we wanted our own time to process the feelings we were having. We wanted to connect and feel, and it was hard to do that among a large tour group. In fact, after the tour ended, we chose to stay and went back into the camp. This is when we saw the bathrooms. At the risk of being repetitive, we must reiterate how shocked we were that human life could be treated so poorly. 




Washrooms and Toilets
How many of you would feel comfortable going to the bathroom here?


Now, how many of you would feel comfortable sharing a hole with another person? Don't forget - you're on a schedule so if you don't go when it's your time, you are out of luck. We felt angry, and like it was another disgusting display of how the Nazi's degraded prisoners. 

Memorial
One bright spot in the midst of sadness was a memorial situated between two of the gas chambers. It helped to be able to pay tribute and apologize. It's such a small thing, and it doesn't make up for the atrocities done to the Jews. But this memorial was more of a warning to humanity to never let this happen again. 




Kanada 
This section was not actually part of the tour, or in the camp. It was in the vicinity of the camp and we were able to go there because our driver, Artur, was attentive to our conversations in the car, knew what we were there for, and offered to take us. He explained that this section was thought to have been part of Kanada, but it couldn't be confirmed or denied. So here we are, blindly following a stranger because he was being nice to us and was well educated in the Holocaust. We put our trust in someone we didn't know...don't think it didn't go through our minds that we shouldn't be going off the beaten path! Thankfully it all worked out and we got to have an experience that we weren't expected. 




You may be wondering, "What is Kanada?"  This was the place where all the prisoners belongings were taken and sorted. It was basically a warehouse. Nazi's kept the valuables, gave things away to German families, and also used it to help pay for war efforts. Prisoners worked at this location and very rarely made it out alive. Think about it - if they were able to leave, they could tell people what was actually going on. Prisoners were told they would get their belongings back. Little did they know they would be murdered, and their precious belongings would be used to benefit their enemy. On the other hand, there was an advantage to working there. If they were brave enough they could steal items and use it to trade for more food or clothes. One story we share with our students is about a woman named Kitty. She worked at Kanada, so seeing the possible actual site really brought her story alive for us. As you can see, it's in complete ruins. No preservation efforts were made. 





In addition to seeing Kanada, right next to the site was where the train tracks split. To the left was Birkenau, and to the right was Auschwitz I.



If you look closely, you can see that the track ends. We were told that the townspeople who finally got their properties back ripped up the track. You can also see another original cattle car that was used to transport prisoners. 



Throughout this tour, there was often a sense of guilt when our guide would say, "Let's stop in the shade, it's much too hot", or "Sit in the grass to rest while we wait for the rest of the group". The prisoners here could not escape the elements and there was not a single blade of grass in all of Birkenau, and if there was, the prisoners would eat it out of hunger. We visited for a few hours, and then got in an air conditioned car and drove away. But over a million innocent people never got the chance to leave. Seeing this place of nightmares, a place that we have only read about or seen in pictures and videos, affected us in ways that are difficult to explain.

























4 comments:

  1. This entry is probably the most profound or surreal of all...the descriptions you write with the pictures...just unreal..how did this happen? All kinds of emotions by just reading, I am sure your experience there cannot truly be explained.  It must be so difficult to visit places where such horrible and sad things happened. Students will undoubtedly gain a better understanding when you convey how you felt being there.  It is so difficult to understand how something this horrible happened not all that long ago. Thank you for sharing your experiences.

    ReplyDelete
  2. This is a life altering experience. As I teach about the Holocaust also, my students are appalled that such things really happened. When first hearing about the concept they don't understand why they should learn about stuff that happened so long ago, but by the end of the unit, they are the ones going home and talking about what they've learned because they say " It should NEVER happen again and we need to remember!"

    ReplyDelete
  3. You have me hanging on every word. I feel your anxiety & guilt through your words

    ReplyDelete
  4. Wow just wow I can't believe that the first hand experience you got
    made you feel that way just reading the words made me feel bad too I got into it

    ReplyDelete